Getting to Chaco is involves travesing an inhospitable desert across seemingly endless unpaved roads. It is almost as if on purpose those in stewardship of the park have made it a prority to disway the casual tourist. For my brother and I, Chaco represented one of the main goals of our trek to Albuquerque from Salt Lake City.
Arriving in mid-afternoon on a Thursday with threating rains the two of us nearly had the park to ourselves. Luckily for us the campground at the park was under major renovations and was therefore closed (putting in new sewage lines) and many tourists were disuaded as the stewards seemingly intended.
Arriving at the park under ominus clouds we met our young ranger guide at Pueblo Bonito. As the largest and most significant ediface in Chacoan system, Pueblo Bonito has been one of the most extensively excavated, and photographed sites in North America and still has sacred significance to many Puebloen peoples.
As the literal center of the Chacoan culture, Pueblo Bonito's grander is evidence in over 600 rooms and 40+ kivas. At one time the complex towered nearly four stories in places and incorporated skillful and purposeful archeticure and design. Only today are scientists discovering the symbolic meanings of the building itself. The Solstice Project has discovered that the building itself overlooks the meridians of time both oriented to the winter and summer solstices but also the lunar calendar as well. (There is an incredible exhibit outlining the solstice project at the New Mexico Natural History Musuem in Albuquerque New Mexico).
Looking through the doorways and archways one has a profound appreciation for the beauty of the place, and we looked around every corner anticipating to be greated by the ancients.
The center plaza of the complex is wide and expansive. For centuries to perplexity of many, a single gigantic oak tree stood majesticly in an otherwise inhospitibale canyon.
Religion and ceremony had to be central to the purposes of Pueblo Bonito because of the 40+ kivas which foundations reside between the protection of the complex.
One particular mystery about Pueblo Bonito is that there is very little evidence that the 600+ rooms were even occupied. Some even suggest that the majority of the building was simply built as a giant facade. Whatever the purposes or reasons Pueblo Bonito ellicts imagination.
After visiting Pueblo Bontio we said goodbye to our guide and attempted to hike to the Pueblo Alto Complex, I say attempted because after climbing the high above the valley floor rain clouds opened on us and we became drenched with rain. We were not to be detered until we saw lightning across the horizon. Thinking better or of our hike we retreated back to the car. Luckily the rain soon passed and we decided to visit Pueblo del Arroyo which was built in stages and comprises of nearly 280 rooms and over 20+ kivas.
Ultimately, our visit to Chaco was far too short, and we regreted our itinerary didn't allow us more time. However, Chaco is one of those placeI wouldn't hesitate to visit again. Maybe next time we'll make it to the Pueblo Alto Complex and other backcountry hikes. Perhaps even exploring some to of the more than 400 miles of pre-historic roadways that eminate from Chaco.
